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Questions answered

How much heat loss is there through a roof lantern?

You lose more heat through a roof lantern than through the same area of insulated roof, but with modern glass the difference is manageable.

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The short answer

You lose more heat through a roof lantern than through the same area of insulated roof, but with modern glass the difference is manageable. HR++ double glazing has a U-value of about 1.1 W/m²K and triple glazing about 0.5 W/m²K. With 4 m² of glass and a 20 degree difference between inside and outside, that is roughly 88 against 40 watts.

How to work out heat loss through a roof lantern

Heat loss through a roof lantern depends on three things: the U-value of glass and frame, the area and the temperature difference between inside and outside. Multiply the three and you have the loss in watts. That is what the U-value means: the number of watts per square metre per degree of difference.

An example with 4 m² of glass and a 20 degree difference. HR++ with a U-value of about 1.1 gives 1.1 x 4 x 20 = 88 watts. Triple glazing at about 0.5 gives 0.5 x 4 x 20 = 40 watts. A well insulated flat roof of the same size loses about 12 watts. So the glass is the biggest item, but in absolute terms it is the output of a few old-fashioned light bulbs.

  • HR++, 4 m², 20 degree difference: about 88 watts
  • Triple, 4 m², 20 degree difference: about 40 watts
  • Well insulated roof, 4 m²: about 12 watts
  • Frame and upstand come on top of that

Where is the real heat leak?

In older roof lanterns the biggest loss is often not in the glass but at the edges. An aluminium frame without a thermal break conducts cold from outside to inside. An uninsulated timber upstand or a gap between upstand and roof does the same. That is also where condensation forms first.

All DagLichtDesign frames are thermally broken. The upstand is your contractor's work; the installation guide supplied with every delivery includes a step by step plan for upstand, insulation and sealing. See also the upstand of a roof lantern.

Is triple glazing worth the extra cost?

Triple glazing roughly halves the loss through the glass. Whether it pays for itself depends on the size, the orientation and your energy price; within ten years that is not always the case. Triple mainly pays off above bedrooms and for a roof lantern facing north or west, where little solar heat comes in. For most living rooms and open kitchens, especially facing south, HR++ is more than enough. The full trade-off is in triple glazing or HR++.

Besides the energy bill, comfort counts. A warmer inner pane means less cold downdraught and less condensation. See also HR++ double glazing in a roof lantern and triple glazing in a roof lantern.

Do you also gain heat through a roof lantern?

Yes. Sunlight falling through the glass warms the room. In spring and autumn, a south facing roof lantern can therefore give more heat than it loses on a sunny day. In summer that gain becomes a drawback; solar control glass or shading keeps the room cool. How this feeds into your label is explained in roof lantern and energy label.

Frequently asked questions

What is a good U-value for a roof lantern?

The lower, the better. HR++ is around 1.1 W/m²K and is fine for most rooms. Triple glazing at around 0.5 W/m²K is the choice when insulation comes first. A detailed explanation is in the U-value of glass explained.

Can I reduce heat loss with a pleated blind or screen?

A pleated blind or screen closed in the evening adds an extra layer of air and reduces the loss a little. The real difference comes from the glass and a well insulated upstand.

Do you lose more heat through a roof lantern than through a wall window?

With the same glass and area the difference is limited, but it is there. Glass lying flat or at a shallow pitch has a slightly higher U-value than the same glass fitted vertically, because the air in the cavity circulates more easily. Warm air also collects at the ceiling.

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